Day 10 - Hawes to Keld

As correctly but dismally forecast, today was another very wet day, with strong winds and unrelenting heavy rain starting less than an hour after we set off from Hawes. Heading out out on the valley flood plain towards the next village north, Hardraw, it was clear that the storm was coming.

Leaving Hawes - something wicked this way comes

Just another 10 minutes, as we were starting to climb onto the ridge that formed the main part of today's walk the rain was almost on us. Looks nice though from a distance.

Looking back from Little Fell near Hardraw

For the time being enough of the rain, although bear in mind that taking any photographs today was very difficult. [The method was to unhook the camera bag's waterproof cover for a moment, open the camera access hatch, switch the camera on and remove the lens cap while the camera was still protected in the bag, then whip the camera out for no more than 2 or 3 seconds in the hope that no rain lands on the lens to spoil the photo. Also of course only take pictures aiming downwind.]

Today's section of the Pennine Way was just over 13 miles, and largely consisted of heading up to the peak of Great Shunner Fell, which at 716 metres is (again) the highest point we've reached so far, then back down again through Thwaite and onto Keld. The ascent isn't too steep, but it meant somewhere around 4 hours of continuous ascent over slippery mud, rocky tracks, and bog.

One who didn't make it to the top

By 1pm we were at the peak, but it was simply too cold, wet, and windy to do much more than take a few pictures then move on. There's a 4-way seat at the top, the theory presumably being that whichever way the wind is blowing you can find shelter on one side, but even on the sheltered side my hands stopped working from the sheer cold. As seems to be the case on the peaks, even late in April, rain turns to sleet and snow.

Great Shunner Fell - "shelter" at the top

Heading north-eastwards down from the peak the rain paused for a few seconds, enough to get a slightly better view back to the summit.

View back up to Great Shunner Fell summit

A slightly steeper descent down into Thwaite. Although flagstones have again been laid on the worst sections of peat bog many of these have now either sunk or tilted, so you have to be on your guard to avoid slipping off, or over, or sinking entirely. Still, I'm quite sure that it's still a vast improvement on how it must have been 30 years ago.

Thwaite looks like a very quaint little village, with quite a few rental cottages evident. I wonder if there's the same degree of resentment here as in Cornwall toward second home owners, pushing up house prices beyond the means of locals, and meaning that services such as schools and grocery shops tend to shut down through lack of continuous use. Anyway, Twaite was clearly the place to stop for lunch, it being about 2pm, and there being a cafe in sight. The only problem was that the proprietor said "no dogs", so:
a) we initially set off as a "cut your nose off to spite your face" protest, then
b) changed our minds so that Sean was going to sit outside with Saffie to eat his own food as a protest, then
c) the proprietor relented slightly and said that if Saffie sat inside on the door mat it would be OK
Problem solved. This is the second time that the dog policy has been relaxed, the first time being in the bar at the Crown in Horton (no dogs in the bar when food is being served. Well, OK if she's quiet). Sean's planning to try the same trick at Tan Hill tonight, where he had planned to camp, but the weather is so awful that can't be contemplated.

On leaving Thwaite we noticed that Saffie was limping slightly, seeming to have something awry with her rear left leg. After half a mile or so it had apparently loosened up, so it may be just a bit of cold weather stiffness, but I really hope she doesn't have further problems like this since that could mean dropping out of the walk.

Footpath signs in Thwaite said that it was only 3 miles to Keld, but that's not the whole story. First of all there's another ascent most of the way up Kisdon (hill). Then there's the easterly gale which was trying to knock us off our feet all the way, since this is an east facing slope. Then there are the rocky paths most of the way, so it's a stumble jamboree. I managed to shelter behind a high stone wall for long enough to take a picture looking back towards Thwaite.

Kisdon back to Thwaite

I forgot to mention it earlier but today was the day we left Wensleydale and entered Swaledale, so the final view for the day is looking south-eastwards down the Swale valley. As always, lovely views, which very likely would be improved by sunshine, or at least lack of continuous heavy rain.

Swaledale from Kisdon hill

Just half a mile or so later were were heaving down toward Keld, and at the bridge overlooking Kisdon Force (waterfall) we had to say a final farewell to Sean and Saffie as their stop tonight was at Tam Hill, another 4 miles further on. Unless something very unexpected happens we won't be seeing them again for the rest of the Pennine Way, which is a very great shame as Sean's been great company for the past 9 days, both walking and in the evening pub stops, and Saffie's been a constant companion, rounding us up when any of strays too far ahead and licking our faces when she finds us. Sean's promised to send me email updates and photos of his Pennine Way walking, so I hope to post some of Sean's updates at some point.

Staying tonight at the Keld Lodge, which is a large ex-hunting lodge, ex-Youth Hostel, now operating as a private hotel. Another very good place, nicely converted, free Wifi (subject to a recommended donation to the Swaledale mountain rescue), good food, and its own bar so we avoid having to go out in the still torrential rain.

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